Today has been strangely normal.
Besides being an oxymoron, there are all kinds of odd
significances behind that statement. I
woke up at 4:15am to go running with Pak Indri—an Indonesian language teacher
at my school—and Bu Ani, but I got out of the house late because I was looking
up information about the US Open semi-final match between Roger Federer and
Novak Djokovic. My heart broke a little
seeing that, despite standing at the cusp of victory several times, Federer
could not put away the Serb. Anyway,
this caused me to leave late. I went for
a short run. I came home, washed all my
clothes, which had been piling up since the middle of Ramadan, and ate
breakfast. I tried to take a nap. I woke up again, met my friend Dira, and we
spent the day out. We biked to the ruins
of a Buddhist temple called Surowono and went to the swimming pool. There were zillions of little kids. Weighing my desire to swim against the
combined risk of high urine content and probability of merciless attention to
my fair skin, I didn’t go in the water.
We had a good talk. A group of
boys came up to talk to me in English, which was very nice. They were super friendly and very respectful,
impressed with my Indonesian and eager to ask me questions about English and
about America. Some said I was the first
foreigner they had ever met (surprising, because their English was relatively
excellent).
After leaving, we ate lunch.
Two bowls of bakso for
me. Then we saw a place where there’s a
natural spring and a cave, but we didn’t go in, because there was already a
group of people in the springpool. So we
just relaxed for a few hours in the shade of the trees and an unwalled bamboo
hut. I took a nap. I was already sunburned when we started the
return journey. Like most Indonesians,
Dira had never seen a sunburn before.
She was half-frightened by the redness in my skin, and I had to make an
effort to convince her it was nothing serious.
On the way home, we stopped by the “supermarket” and I saw her
house. I arrived at my place, brought my
now-crisp laundry into my room, and bathed.
After that, more nondescript things.
Really, calling the day “normal” doesn’t do it justice. It was a really good day. I got out of the house, met new people, got
to know my locale better, and was adequately productive. No one here, including me, seemed to register
that it is, in fact, the eleventh of September, and it is exactly ten years
since the attacks. It only entered my
mind late in the afternoon.
________
My father was six or seven years old when Kennedy was
assassinated, but the memory of that day remains clear in his mind. Even though he lived in Ireland and had no
family or connections in America, the collective trauma of that day was enough
to carve its own permanent place in his memory.
There probably wasn’t a moment of comparable trauma, at least for the
American psyche, in the thirty-eight years between JFK’s assassination and the
day those planes went down.
In some ways, countries are like individual humans. Their experiences during infancy and
childhood give shape to the struggles and conflicts that will play such a
crucial role throughout their lives. As
time goes on, a definite personality forms.
Then life happens. Joys and
sorrows accumulate, softening hardness, hardening softness, and carving new
lines into the soul and visage. If you
know what to look for, you can reap an incredible amount of information about a
person and their history by simply looking at their face—the way they hold
their mouth, the way that smiling alters their face, the way they wrinkle their
eyebrows.
And certain memories and events become imbued with a
timelessness and significance that means they are part of that most basic
storyline. The plot of your life. The story of a nation. We live long, long lives, most of the moments
in which we will forget because they were not consequential. But a few moments we can look back on and say unequivocally: That. Was.
Critical.
______
I was in eighth grade at the moment I heard. Mr. Ciccone’s history class, to be
precise. Both planes had already
hit. The principal, Mr. Margolis, came
on the PA and told us that the United States had been attacked. I was thirteen years old, and I did not know
how to react. I don’t mean that I didn’t
know the socially appropriate reaction (one ought to be sad, frightened,
perhaps angry, and terribly worried for all the people in danger). I mean it at a deep level: I did not have any
instinct of how to react. Like an animal
species that has never encountered humanity and thus doesn’t know to run from
the hunter. Nothing had ever happened
like this. Reaction: blank.
There was only amazement.
School did not end early that day.
After getting home, I sat on the couch in the living room and watched
the news with my family. I sat there all
day and into the night. I must have
watched the towers collapse a hundred and fifty times, and I could have kept
watching. When you’re a kid from a place
that’s completely predictable, clean, and safe, you tend to witness or
anticipate disasters with an enraptured thrill.
Let that hurricane come here! Who
cares if it destroys a bunch of stuff? You
don’t understand why adults worry so much about bad things happening. All you know is that it’s amazing and extraordinary
and it feels important. At times over
the next few years I would find myself both moved by what happened and dismayed
by the course our country pursued in its wake.
_______
America has been gearing up for this anniversary for a long
while now, and I’d bet anything that almost everyone
in the country will watch or participate or catch sight of some kind of
tribute. The September 11 attacks are
part of what America is now. The effects
of the wound, which has been healing for the last decade, nonetheless remain
visible for anyone to see—like a permanent limp. America’s perception of itself changed. America’s perception of the rest of the world
changed. The entire world’s view of
America changed, for better or worse.
And there is no going back. The
wound may heal and things may go better or worse for the country as time goes
on, but that scar is forever.
Perhaps that’s why it is feels so strange to have had a
normal, even really good, day here. On this date, that is. That scar is so deep
and essential in America, yet this place where I am is untouched. People may not be aware of the date. Being made aware, they shrug their shoulders
and say, Well, don’t worry; there are no
terrorists in this area. And they
carry on, totally unconscious of the monumental significance of the day to every
American (even if the American himself does not perceive the magnitude).
And maybe it’s strange because I can’t quite figure out how
much I’ve been touched by that event. I
am not and have never been a proud and flag-waving type of American, largely
thanks to my European parents. After
9/11, we didn’t have a flag hanging outside of our house or in the windows of
our cars—it just seemed a strange gesture, tainted the moment it became an
unofficially mandatory act of solidarity.
The with us or against us attitude
and the instinct to react with war was fascinating to me, but never
resonated. Yet I am, it seems, in the
service of the United States. Ten years
after the event, I live in Indonesia, the world’s largest Muslim country. And I am, in some way, working to improve
relations between the United States and foreign Muslims.
I was thrilled to be invited to serve in a Muslim
country. Maybe it’s my bleeding heart,
but I guess I’ve always felt as if, since that day, Islam has needed an
advocate in the US. America is well
covered: plenty of people speak for it.
But who speaks for the hundreds of millions of peaceful Muslims whose
reputations were stained on that day? I
hate the black and white picture of good and evil in our world. Something deep down makes me want to make
people understand each other. So I feel
grateful for this opportunity. Ten years
later, it feels right to be here in Indonesia, building my own small bridge
between those two sundered worlds.
At some point in the future, I suppose September 11th will be like Pearl Harbor Day: still marked, but no longer felt in the heart, except by the older folks who were around to witness it and who will carry that experience, and the understanding of its import, inside them to the grave.
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