Last Saturday, my five-year-old host brother got
circumcised.
Normally Muslim boys undergo khitanan (circumcision) at age twelve, and it’s a big to-do. I’ve gone to a pre-khitanan “party” in my village, and it’s much like any other social
gathering that takes place here. That
is, a bunch of men gather at the house of the soon-to-be-foreskin-free youth,
sit on the floor with their backs against the wall, and go through a certain
catalog of prayers. They may also pass
around a microphone to ensure that everyone in a fifty meter radius can hear. Then they all eat a plate of food, prepared
by the host family, smoke cigarettes, and leave.
Fian—my five-year-old little host brother—had to get the
snip because he was having trouble relieving himself, and that certain bit of
skin was the culprit. So on Saturday
night his parents took him to the hospital, and the offending dermis was
excised. I was at home when they came
back, carrying crying little Fian into the house. Soon the living room was bustling with family
and neighbors coming in to watch him wail, regard him with paternal pity, and
grin at each other. Kasian (poor thing)!
At five years old, the unanesthetized burning in your
privatest part must seem like the end of the world, and the tone of his
whimpering was pretty much exactly what you’d expect: devoid of anger,
conveying only pain and confusion. My
host parents pulled the couch and the armchair into the living room and laid
him down on the bigger of the two. He
was truly a pathetic sight, lying there with no pants on, sterile white medical
bandage wrapped around his weenie, his diligent mother sitting over him, doing
her best to ameliorate the fiery anguish with a handheld fan. As I mentioned, family and neighbors came in
to look at him and discuss what was going on, and most of them wore sympathetic
but amused expressions on their faces.
One of them joked with me that it’d have to be me next (the second
circumcision gibe I’ve gotten in a month).
All of this is preface.
Every night since then, he has slept on that couch in the living room,
and for the first few days he hardly ever got up to walk. As I write this on Wednesday night (the fifth
since khitanan), he is out there sleeping
now. The experience of the last five
days has illuminated two aspects of life in the village that generate exactly
opposite reactions in me. First, the
positive. Every night he’s been out
there, he’s been accompanied by both of his parents and his sister. They all sleep in the living room. Bapak falls asleep in the armchair, little
Fian on the couch, and Ibu and Dela (his sister) on a mattress they dragged out
from the bedroom.
The whole family is together, ostensibly to make sure he
doesn’t fall off the couch—though why he’s sleeping there instead of in his bed
is also a mystery. The whole thing is
adorable. I consider my (real) family to
be close, but I couldn’t imagine all of us curling up on the floor and in
chairs in the living room just so we could all sleep together in the same
place. The family here coexists without
privacy and without the desire for it.
They just want to be close to each other—nobody, except perhaps the
youngest, is thinking exclusively about his own comfort. I wrote in an earlier posting about how
impressed I was with the harmony and closeness I’ve observed in Javanese
families, and this is a prime example.
That is one facet of life here that has shone with clarity in the last five days. The other one, however, is much darker. Because the little one has been basically parked out in the living room, and his family is often sitting around with him, the television has rarely been turned off the last five days. People here watch a lot of TV. In my house, they switch on the boob tube at around 5:30am and—barring unusual circumstances—only shut it off when everyone’s gone to sleep, which can be 10:00pm or later.
As I see it, there are multiple things behind this, some
harmless and some more ominous. First
off, this is just a noisy country.
People here are incredibly desensitized to sound. In six months here, I have almost never heard
anyone complain about sounds being loud, disturbing, or poor quality. In fact, I think many people here feel
strange if there isn’t any sort of racket shattering the peace of the air. And that’s fine…there are plenty of Americans
who need to have the radio on and
can’t stand being in a quiet place.
Beyond that, however, are some more troubling issues. I absolutely cannot understand how groups of
people here will sit in front of the television for hours and hours and hours,
neither truly watching nor truly engaged in conversation. To my eye, it looks like the worst mode of
television watching. That sort of
television watching you might do with your roommates in the mid-morning after a
late night party and you’ve got a hangover and you know there are
responsibilities you should be taking care of but you’re too lazy and out of it
to get started but you still feel bad because you’re not even watching the TV
and really the programming is complete shit anyway so you feel even worse
because some soulless daytime crap is your pathetic excuse for not doing
actually important things. I’ve watched
some of the programming here, and it’s completely inane. People may be momentarily entertained, but
nothing at all is learned or gained.
What disturbs me is the sheer amount of time that people
spend in this sort of stupefied state.
They are 100% passive and not even really engaged in the thing that’s
being beamed into their brains. So many
hours every day that could be spent in way
more interesting or productive ways—reading a book maybe?—simply tick
away. In my house, when they’re not
watching television, my family has liked to pop in the same two or three VCDs
of dangdut concerts. And they watch these things over and over and
over, only without any hint of excitement.
I could almost understand it if these things really excited them, but
they don’t even seem happy to be watching most of the time. It’s just…something to look at. A way to pass the time. They kind of stare at the television and
occasionally say things to one another.
Reminds me of the dropped-out-stoner types from college.
In moments of negativity, it can feel as if I’m surrounded
by people who are simply bored as their lives tick away, with no motivation to
change things up and really no concept that such a change might be possible or
desirable. Every day I bike to school
and back to my house, and in both directions I usually pass the same people on
the street, no matter the time of day.
There’s a set of people who are always
sitting outside their houses, just staring at the road, making small talk
with neighbors. Some people sit and do
nothing every day for years and decades.
How is that possible? I mean,
I’ve certainly fallen into slothfulness and laziness and passivity at times in
my life, but even in those periods my brain is still seeking some sort of
stimulus—reading a book, watching something I’ve never watched, staring at
sports, getting immersed in some sort of storyline. I just can’t imagine that kind of long-term
stagnation not being accompanied by serious stupefaction.
I don’t mean to pick on Indonesians in particular, because
there are plenty of people everywhere that live in this way. I’ve just never felt it so strongly as I do
here. Everything is so predictable and repetitive. I mean, shit, I
think I understand better now why people are so incredibly excited when a
foreigner comes around. There’s so much
monotony, so little impetus to change.
Since arriving I’ve struggled with the uncertainty of how to
judge the differences in the culture here.
Should I feel bad for people who live in such a tiny world, or is pity
arrogant and inappropriate? On an
intellectual level, I try not to judge, because who the hell am I? There’s nothing to say that an active and
challenging life is, in a cosmic sense, more “meaningful” or worth living than
a boring, passive one. But on an
emotional level I just feel sorry for a lot of people. I could never accept such a passive
existence, and in my heart I cannot accept that it is as meaningful as an
active life.
[Note&Disclaimer:
This does NOT apply to all Indonesians, nor am I saying that everyone has to go
volunteer in another country in order to have an “active” or meaningful
existence. I certainly have Indonesian
friends and acquaintances here who are plenty active and whose outlook
incorporates a concept of self-improvement.]
I’ve strayed a good way from the television thing. This is the sort of track my mind gets after
my brain is attacked for days on end by the sounds of SpongeBob reruns and dangdut concerts. It seems like other people are sitting there
as their brains melt and their senses and motivations and ambitions are
dulled. I physically cringe upon seeing
my little host brother crane his neck around an obstructing person so that he
can watch the same sports-drink commercial that he’s already seen dozens of
time earlier in the day.
The repetitiveness of life here can also make me impatient
with people who ask me if I’m bored when I’m alone in my room.
My internal monologue then goes something like: Are you
@#$%ing kidding me? The stuff I do alone
in my room is a million times less boring than the things you all do every
single day over and over and over again.
If I’m in there, I’m exercising my mind reading or writing or actively
listening to music or recording music or doing work for my job or having
necessary venting sessions with my fellow volunteers, not just letting my brain
rot in my head from lack of use. Do you
think I’m just lying on my bed and staring at the ceiling? How can you be so inured to the tedium of
routines here?
My external response:
Oh, no I’m not bored. I’m usually doing stuff, and I like relaxing
in my room.
And then my brain goes off in all kinds of directions. Like, what would this society be capable of
if people only blah blah blah, and
how much time gets “wasted” every day just by people who blah blah blah, and is this tendency towards sloth and predictably
an innate characteristic in blah blah
blah, and a million other things.
Being honest, one reason I wanted to live in a poor country
is to see what sort of wisdom there is in poverty. For all its wealth, there is a shallowness
and immaturity in much of my native culture that leaves me yearning for other
wisdom. On the other hand, I was also
guarding myself against accepting the wisdom of another culture simply because
it was foreign, as so many New Age types do in the US. Nothing is more annoying than the person who
tries to tell you that Some Other Culture has “figured it all out”. Coming here, my attitude was to look for the
wisdom and the folly. Up to this point,
I feel like I’ve noted and absorbed a lot of both.
10/5/11
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